Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas 6. If you’re using the traditional round Cumberland sausage, tuck the garlic and most of the sage leaves between the layers of sausage. If you’re using normal sausages, untwist the links and squeeze the meat through, rolling them into a tight circle and pushing in the garlic and sage as you go. Secure the sausages with a couple of skewers or some sharp rosemary stalks. Place on an oiled baking tray, drizzle with oil and sprinkle them with the rosemary leaves. Roast in the oven for 20 minutes, or until golden and crisp. Around 5 minutes before the sausages are ready, remove the tray from the oven, place the rest of the sage leaves next to the sausages, drizzle with oil, then return to the oven – the leaves will go lovely and crisp.

While the sausages are cooking, chop the potatoes into rough chunks and cook in boiling salted water until tender. Drain well, then mash until smooth, adding the milk, 70g of the butter and the horseradish (use more if needed). Season to taste with sea salt and black pepper, then put the lid on the pan and keep warm until needed.

Making the onion gravy is simple. Fry the onions – really slowly – in a little oil, covered, for about 15 minutes, or until soft. Remove the lid, turn the heat up, and as soon as the onions become golden, pour in the vinegar and boil until it almost disappears. Turn the heat down again, add the rest of the butter, crumble in the stock cube and 550ml of water and stir well. Simmer to a nice gravy consistency. To serve, dollop some oozy potatoes on the plate, chop up the sausages (discarding the skewers), put them alongside the mash, and spoon over the onion gravy. Scatter with the crispy sage leaves. Proper comfort food!